Between cliffs and the billowing breakers
The Norwegian of old found his home
A foundation he laid in these acres
His own hands raised his house from the loam.”
Intelligent life has existed on the outermost naked isle in the archipelago off the coast of Trøndelag ever since the Stone Age. Apart from finds from 11th century farms, we know very little about the people who lived there all those years ago. However, it’s highly likely that the basic way of life at this isolated outpost, exposed to the elements and only a stone’s throw from the edible treasures of the sea, has changed little over the past 10,000 years.
“We cannot live by the sight of the sea,” says Berit Akseth. She keeps the boat steady while her husband Gustav Gjevik drags a crab pot up over the side of the boat. Not that there’s anything wrong with a clear view of the sea, islands and horizon. But the very essence of life in the fishing village of Mausundvær – the largest fishing village south of the Lofoten Islands – is access to food from the sea. The uninterrupted view of the horizon in all directions is a pure bonus.
This outpost of society offers something even most Trønders are not familiar with: Trøndelag’s own archipelago with thousands of polished islets and great
fishing for anyone who makes the effort to cast a line.
It’s packed inside the pot. Out of his faithful pot, Gustav pulls five, six, ten, twelve mature crabs, lured in by some remains of a halibut carcass. “When we set a pot, and leave it a day or two, it’s usually full when we pull it up,” says Gustav.
He pulls up the second pot and once again a dozen edible crabs find their way aboard. Three or four smaller specimens are thrown overboard and left to grow even bigger. Berit shows us how to hold the crabs to avoid being pinched, and the best way to put
them in the bucket to avoid damaging any of their many limbs. When the crab fishing is over, we continue by boat between the skerries to their private islet. We go ashore, grab the rope thrown to us and receive help to moor the boat.
Foto: Jarle Hagen
FROM SEA TO MOUTH
They have erected a simple wooden lavvu on their islet to provide shelter and accommodation. There is also a large barbecue, and they put on scallops harvested by local divers to grill in their shells. The pomp and ceremony of the urban kitchen has not reached this isolated spot yet, apart from a few nice pictures in magazines. The focus is exclusively on the produce.
A little later, back in the fishing village, we stand on the quayside by the fish landing centre and greet the local crab fishermen; people who live by the sea. On the boat is a chap in orange who works at sea, while on land is one of the centre’s four employees – his wife. Few words are exchanged while one crate of crabs after the other is taken ashore, ready to be transported from the island community to supermarkets and gourmet
restaurants on the mainland.
Photo: Jarle Hagen
A little later, we are back in Gustav’s boat heading in the direction of Frøya.
However, we are not going to this large island with few trees. We stop a little over
halfway on one of the many small islands in the Trøndelag archipelago. Gustav
reduces speed and navigates into a narrow bay with cliffs on both sides. We spot a
sandy beach at the end of the bay. We jump ashore, while Gustav anchors the boat.
We put on our wetsuits – a necessity if you plan to stay in the water for some time –
and then attach our diving masks and snorkels. The area is a paradise for swimmers,
free divers and scuba divers – not to mention the area’s commercial scallop divers.
However, our mission on this afternoon is fun, not food. We wade out into the
shallow green water and dive underwater to explore.
«We cannot live by the sight of sea.»
Photo: Jarle Hagen
Trøndelag offers many excellent areas for diving and snorkelling,
from the shore or boat. You will find everything from wrecks, kelp forests and teeming marine life to walls, overhangs and not least the chance to harvest the world’s best scallops.
Mausundvær is not alone in offering outstanding opportunities for outdoor recreation, including berry picking and fishing. The archipelago stretching from Hitra, Frøya and along the Fosen peninsula consists of thousands of islands, islets and skerries. Local ferries, passenger boats and bridges take you from island to island, where you can visit ancient fishing villages, eat local food and enjoy a beer at the local brew pub. Live the simple life. You can stay in a traditional rorbu (fishermen’s cottage) or a solitary lighthouse amongst the waves.
Many a German find their way here to fish the summer’s night away, while others come to watch the white-tailed sea eagle dive for fish and capture a memory of a lifetime with their camera. If you are in search of more physical activities, you can try sea rafting by rigid-inflatable boat (RIB) or seek out a local diving and kayaking club for an exciting course, to rent equipment or go on a guided adventure.
If you rent a boat, you can visit one or more of the many small islands and islets in the archipelago or see if the fish are biting.
Explore the coast the way you want to – fast paced or pure peace and tranquillity.
Minimalist, modern and down to earth. Or should we say “down to sand”? Located on one of Norway’s finest sandy beaches, Stokkøya Sjøsenter offers a unique coastal experience!
Right at the end of a long and isolated road, the founders of the sea centre have built up a beachfront gem. You will find a variety of architecturally distinctive beach houses, not to mention a wonderful beach bar renowned for fantastic seafood.
This attracts a steady stream of Norwegians and tourists from every corner of the globe.
Whether you are attracted by a relaxing weekend in an idyllic setting with the indescribable tranquillity and views of the beach bar or activities like sea kayaking, wind surfing and swimming, you are unlikely to find a better spot than Stokkøya.
COASTAL NORWAY - WHERE SEA MEETS SKY
The coast of Trøndelag is wild, yet charming, offering adventures
on the cusp between the authentic and unspoilt and the modern.
For the people living on the coast, respect for nature has not been an ethical ideal, but rather a necessity for survival. The unpredictable weather in the Trondheimsleia strait and further out to sea has tested many throughout history. An encounter with the moods of the sea, from untameable forces of nature to never ending stillness, is an encounter you will never forget.
The coast of Trøndelag boasts a teeming bird and animal life, magical light conditions and a varied and beautiful landscape. You will discover a coastal culture with vibrant Communities where the basis of existence is in the sea. Local culinary traditions live on in tandem with the modern kitchen, and the residents of the coast are keen to share them
Ever since the 17th century, lighthouses have served to guide sailors safely along the coast and inshore. Many a dramatic story has played out along the coast, some ending in joy and others in tragedy.
Along the way, you can stop at one or more cafés and pubs or simply rent a lighthouse for a unique stay near the open sea.
On the coast of Trøndelag, our larder is right on our doorstep. We are proud of the local produce, so there is no shortage of places serving local cuisine. You can taste blue mussels, scallops, salmon, crabs straight from the sea, not to mention delicacies from the land
such as wild mutton, venison, cave cheese and many other coastal specialties.
Or you can simply harvest your own produce straight from Mother Nature. You can fish, gather mussels, set crab pots and harvest seaweed along the entire coastline. A fisherman’s paradise awaits you, regardless of whether you prefer saltwater or freshwater fishing. You can rent a boat and fishing tackle along the coast and stay in a charming rorbu (fishermen’s cottage) or a high standard local hotel. You can also go deep-sea
fishing with a local guide and experience the thrill when the big one bites
TRAVEL TIPS ALONG THE COAST
Austrått in Ørland is one of Norway’s oldest manors, with a history dating back more than 1000 years. The former residents include Lady Ingerd, a significant personality in Norway during the Reformation, and a source of inspiration for a famous play by Henrik Ibsen.
Visit a modern fish farm and watch the salmon leaping in their pens on a quick, safe, and eventful guided boat trip from the Coastal Museum (Kystmuseet) at Sandstad, Hitra.
Visit the fishing village of Titran, where the buildings bear witness to its former glory. A magical place where sea meets sky. The Titran disaster of 1899 claimed the lives of 140 fishermen in one night due to a hurricane.
Out towards the open sea on Stokkøya is the wonderful Hosnasand and Stokkøya Sjøsenter with its distinctive architecture. Close by is Harbakhula, a huge natural rock cave in the
mountain, offering a breathtaking view of the archipelago.
The archipelago north of Frøya is known as “gullrekka”, the Golden Chain. All the islands have their own special character and history, but still have in common the same
coastal culture and the sea as their larder.
Explore the coastal landscape by bike. You will find one gem after the other in Rissa, from Stadsbygd and the coastal heritage museum (Kystens Arv) and up to Råkvåg, where the quayside warehouses house a fishery museum, art exhibition and several places to eat.
Spend the night at a lighthouse with the open sea as your neighbour. Climbing to the top of the lighthouse tower offers a view for miles around.
On safari in Froan, Norway’s largest marine nature reserve, you are guaranteed to see white-tailed eagles, cormorants and seals, as well as many other bird and animal species.
Visit one of the region’s many festivals, village fairs and pageants.
Read more at www.kystnorge.com
NORVEG – EXPERIENCE 10,000 YEARS OF COASTAL CULTURE
More than 10,000 years ago, the first people settled in what would become Norway. They were lured mostly by the resources of the sea and coast. The people along the coast developed a unique and rich culture in harmony with nature. We have exported seafood overseas for more than 1,000 years.
The Coastal Museum in Rørvik conveys the coastal culture of the past, present and future. Experience our archaeological exhibition, the old trading post Berggården, stay overnight in a rorbu (fishermen’s cottage) at the listed fishing village of Sør-Gjæslingan or enjoy delicious local food at Norveg!
www.kystmuseetnorveg.no | tel +4748 88 00 24
DOLMSUNDET HOTELL HITRA
Dolmsundet Hotell on Hitra is a full-service hotel offering nice hotel rooms, large apartments and cosy cabins. The cabins and apartments feature, kitchen, lounge, several bedrooms, private bathroom and outdoor seating area.
The hotel restaurant specialises in local cuisine, including scallops, baill, venison and salmon.
Welcome to Hitra and Dolmsundet Hotell!
tel: +47 72 44 04 40
Enjoy the coast and coastal culture all year round! Stay in cabins with a sea view. Hire a boat or bike or use your feet to explore our island. If you are travelling by boat, or you have your own cabin and boat, you can dock at the marina and come up for a bite to eat or to participate in some of our events. Taste all the delicious fish and meat dishes we are renowned for, based on Hitra´s fantasticIngredients, including fish from the sea, venison from the
land and cheeses and cured meats from our farm food producers.
tel: +47 72 44 01 32
Hitra and Frøya are the perfect bases for unforgettable fishing adventures. Hitra Turistservice rents holiday houses with boats on the islands of Hitra and Frøya. The holiday is the highlight of a year for most people so a pleasant stay is essential. A fishing trip in pure, fresh sea air and picturesque surroundings combined with social events with family or fishing friends is excellent medicine for recreation.
tel: +47 40 00 19 55
COASTAL HERITAGE MUSEUM
Welcome to Trøndelag’s beautiful coastal heritage museum, Kystens Arv, in Fosen! A full-day experience for the whole family with activities and experiences related to traditional boats, crafts and the history of the coastal dwellers.
Visit our new museum building, see the exhibitions, learn to row traditional boats, relax in the restaurant or watch the art of boat building. Just one hour from Trondheim. Welcome
tel: +47 73 85 55 60
THE COAST OF TRØNDELAG
Full-service hotel and event organiser on the outermost part of the coast of Trøndelag.
Experience the coast and coastal culture year-round!
Rents holiday houses and apartments with boats on the islands of Hitra and Frøya.
Superb conditions along the entire coast of Trøndelag.
Perfect conditions for eagle and seal safaris.
Island hopping in wonderful and exciting coastal nature with short distances between experiences.
Experience the geology island of Leka, exciting stories from the centre of the earth.
Clear water and a rich marine life await beneath the surface.
Discover Trøndelag from the water with perfect conditions for kayaking and canoeing.
Several exciting locations for birdwatching
along the coast of Trøndelag.
You will find companies offering sea rafting along the entire coast of Trøndelag.
VISIT A FISH FARM
Join a guided trip to a salmon farm and learn
about modern Norwegian aquaculture.
Hosnasand on the island of Stokkøy is described by enthusiasts as the ideal place for windsurfing.
MUSEET KYSTENS ARV
Coastal heritage museum with boat building yard.
KYSTMUSEET I SØR TRØNDELAG
Exhibitions on coastal culture and aqua-culture, trips to fish farms.
Conveys the coastal culture through permanent and temporary exhibitions.www.kystmuseetnorveg.no
One of the largest trading posts on the coast of Trøndelag in the 18th and 19th centuries.
BRYGGEREKKA IN RAKVÅG
Longest row of old quayside warehouses outside a city in Norway.
Renaissance manor dating from 1656.www.nkim.no/austratt